Yorkshire Dales, Hawes

Friday 19th September 2025

Rain overnight continues into the morning so on our last day we opt for a visit to the very interesting Dales museum in Hawes. Lots on the history of the Dales and of Wensleydale sheep.

From there we set off towards the A1 and home. Irritatingly there are many holdups en route so a four hour journey stretches to 6 with the prospect of relaxing in the sunshine of our home gardens diminishing fast.

Home at 6pm after a satisfying break. It's warmer and drier here in Cambridge but it lacks the beauty and drama of the Yorkshire Dales landscape.

A useful stile

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Yorkshire Dales, Carperby and Aysgarth

 Thursday 18th September 2025

The morning dawns bright but we know it can be as fickle as the American president (currently enjoying hospitality at Windsor) so we plan to head out promptly to make the most of the calmer weather before expected storms this afternoon.

Drove to Carperby and a varied walk crossing open dales, stone walls, sheep fields, riversides and into Aysgarth Falls Hotel for lunch. We followed part of Walking World ID:208 anti-clockwise from Carperby to Aysgarth.

As we leave we visit the local church with its excellent medieval “Jervaulx” screen and also Aysgarth Falls themselves now awash with heavy rain from the uplands.

There are many remains of the lead mining which once made this area so prosperous, but has left bare patches on the landscape where nothing will grow.

Walking World notes: "There is easy walking throughout on this varied ramble, but despite feeling remote at times the walker is never too far from civilisation. There is also the opportunity to shorten the walk if bad weather or aching legs intervene."
The rest of the walk is again by rivers and across fields of cattle or sheep with extensive views until we reach Carperby again. As we drive back to Thwaite along the narrow twisting roads the long-promised rain descends and there is mist on the hills. But now we are back at Kearton having showers and mugs of tea.

In the evening to the King’s Head Gunnerside which. Is a busy traditional local pub with good hearty meals and good
Black Sheep beer.

Yorkshire Dales, Muker and Keld

Wednesday 17th September 2025

The weather is persistent rain so we delay our departure for our planned walk. Eventually we head off to Muker where we view fine local photographs at the art gallery, interesting social history at a small display and after a light lunch at the Farmers Arms in Muker (popular and busy) start off on a walk along the river Swale toward Keld. 

Damp Day at Muker

There are two routes, one climbs north west from Muker up to Hooker Mill Scar then down into Keld. The other follows the river at the base of the hill and is much easier. A good choice would be to take one on the way out and the other coming back, making a circular walk with tea and cakes at the camp site/farm shop in Keld.

The weather was still playing tricks alternating between sun and rain so as three of us made it as far as the café in Keld but we decide not to complete the planned round trip involving some ascents and wait for Mark to pick us up. 

In the evening to Hardraw and the atmospheric Green Dragon (live music, candle light, open fires) for an excellent steak pie and very good beer including Theakstons Old Peculier. 

The route crossing the hills is tortuous with vertiginous cliffs just a few feet off the road and bright safety reflectors like endless necklaces guiding us away from the edge.

Yorkshire Dales, Richmond, Thwaite

Tuesday September 16th 2025

To Richmond for lunch then an amble around this attractive market town. 

The weather is warm and sunny and everything is very relaxed though we know rain is coming for the next few days.

The walk is Walking World ID:1079 and takes in the banks of the River Swale and east to Easby Abbey. At a little over three miles it begins and ends at the old station, now repurposed as a café and cinema plus a number of small workshops and studios for artists, artisans and bakers.

Kearton Guesthouse

The weather remains fine as we drive on to our accommodation in Thwaite, Swaledale: Kearton guesthouse. The half dozen rooms are comfortable and our evening meal from a reasonably varied menu is very good. 

This is the centre for some very good walking, as the number of holiday cottages in this small community suggests. It must be very quiet in the winter.